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Understanding your Skin Barrier

Understanding your Skin Barrier

by Domonique Slomczewski in Education

You may have heard the words "skin barrier" thrown around a lot on social media, but what actually is it, and what does it do?

Think of your skin like building blocks:

The skin cells are the bricks and the lipids (fats) are the glue that holds it all together. These building blocks are what makes up your skin barrier. 

The skin barrier or stratum corneum, is the top most outer layer of your epidermis. This is the layer of skin that protects all other layers from dirt, debris and free radicals. It acts as a shield (barrier) for everything that tries to penetrate through into your deeper skin layers. When this "wall" is strong, your skin is able to defend, protect and repair effectively.

What happens when this layer is impaired? 

When your barrier is impaired, your skin is left unprotected and unable to regenerate and repair. Inflammation, irritation, dryness, sensitivity (does that serum sting when you put it on?), flaking and breakouts are a few ways your skin may feel when experiencing barrier impairment.

Ok - so your barrier is impaired, but how did it get this way?

Barrier impairment can be caused by a multitude of things..
Over exfoliation - check,
Harsh or abrasive skin care products - check,
Over cleansing - check,
Over treating - most definitely
Environmental stressors - you name it.

Sun exposure, pollution, wind and anything abrasive on the skin can cause barrier damage over time. This is why the right products, in the right combination and the right circumstances make the world of difference. 

So often as clinicians, we see women coming in using products to "stop all the oil", when actually all they are doing is impairing their barrier. Products designed to reduce oil flow are more often than not, used in a way that is too harsh on the skin, and in a cocktail of oil reducing products, creating sensitive, dehydrated and impaired barriers.

So now we know our barrier is impaired, what can we do about it?

I'm so glad you asked...

Start by simplifying your routine. Gentle products made for hydrating and nourishing, think Shea Butter & Hyalauronic Acids, Niacinamide, Glycerin - all these ingredients are star players in barrier repair. 

Take a break from your actives. Put down the glycolic acid scrub, no matter how clean you feel after it, it's only making it worse. Remove alcohol based products from your routine or anything that acts as an astringent (drying). 

Turn down the hot water. We know that showers that feel like the depths of a volcano  are great for your soul, but they aren't that great for your skin barrier. Lukewarm is best when trying to repair.

And the golden rule.... SPF. Always wear your SPF. Rain, hail or shine. Inside, outside, driving, working in a freezer. Don't skip your SPF. This is one of the most important steps in protecting your skin barrier from any further damage.

Skin barrier impairment or damage takes time. Understand that repairing takes more than one magic quick fix serum. Depending on the severity of the damage, it can take weeks or even months. But start small and simple and results will come. Focus on long term consistency rather than quick fix "solutions". Quick fix is never a real fix.

Healthy skin starts with a healthy barrier. 

Tags: barrier impairment fix my barrier healthy skin skin skin barrier skin health stratum corneum understanding skin barrier
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